The sport climbing shoes currently on the market look vaguely like ballet flats. Most of the underside and the toe are covered in a soft rubber capable of a considerable amount of friction (grip).
How do you choose a climbing shoe?
When choosing climbing shoes we suggest going to expert shopkeepers who can recommend the model and size best suited to your foot. Usually you choose a shoe a couple of sizes smaller than your foot, so that the toes are gathered together and slightly bent forwards.
This position, which some will find uncomfortable or even painful, has an important reason for being. In fact, when the toes are bent forwards, under the weight of the body they won't bend upwards and make the foot lose its grip when it is placed on small protrusions in the rock. The foot will behave like a fairly rigid body and will let us keep the whole weight of the body on a single point; this means more friction and grip on the rock, and therefore better balance and footing.
For those just starting to climb, choosing climbing shoes can be rather difficult. To begin with we can suggest a size that isn't too tight, so that you aren't driven to focus your attention on the pain in your foot instead of on the climbing moves and on balance. As your experience grows it will then be possible to choose tighter models. In that case we'll give up a little comfort in favour of greater stability on the foot.
Bear in mind, though, that in the long run it's the shoe that adapts to your foot. When choosing, remember that leather shoes give, that is they stretch and adapt to the foot, more easily than shoes made of synthetic materials. In any case all shoes will generally give a little over time.
Among the models on the market we suggest the velcro ones, which are quicker to put on; in fact you will often see climbers taking their shoes off every time they come down from a rock route. They do this to avoid dirtying the rubber with earth, dust or even mud: the rubber, being fairly porous, risks losing that special stickiness on rock.
Being able to take your shoes off and put them on quickly, without having to keep tying laces, can be an advantage and a real convenience.
Climbing shoes are worn, if possible, without socks, which gives greater sensitivity across the whole foot and stops the foot from shifting about inside the shoe.
Finally, a very personal tip from the writer. Learn to choose shoes for their technical features, not for their looks or because they go with this or that item of clothing. You aren't climbing on a fashion catwalk, so don't fuss over the colour or the styling. What matters is that they meet your technical needs.
To keep your shoes without the risk of splitting the pair or losing them as you move about the crag, get hold of a simple karabiner, not too big, and use it to keep them together through their heel loops.
Remember that the shoes you are buying, if you intend to climb often, won't be your last: you'll probably have to buy more, then more, and more again. Climbing shoes wear out very quickly, because the rubber is fairly soft. The rubber sole can be restored with the right treatment. A resoler can restore the sole up to 3-4 times, after which it's advisable to change shoes.
Finally, a few thoughts on maintenance. Climbing shoes, like almost all climbing gear, must be kept clean; however, washing them in the washing machine is not recommended. Usually people advise cleaning them by hand in a sink with cold water and a little soap; we suggest cleaning them with a damp cloth to remove any dust, sand and mud that may have built up on them. Better a smelly but useful shoe than a sweet-smelling but ruined one.
In short, it seems a climber's fate is to suffer... but one thing is certain: the fun is guaranteed.
Besides shoes, here is the other essential gear for climbing.