Choosing an ice axe for classic mountaineering is more complicated. There are ice axes for every pocket and every purpose: from the most classic ones with a curved shaft to the most highly technological ones.
Winter mountaineering is an exciting challenge for many mountain lovers. Choosing the right ice axe is essential to ensure safety and the best performance when climbing on snow and ice. There are several types of ice axe on the market, each suited to specific needs and budgets, from the most classic versions to highly technological ones.
Introduction to ice axes for beginners
For those coming to winter mountaineering for the first time, an ice axe with a slightly curved shaft and pronounced teeth on the pick is ideal. These features make it easier to hook into ice and snow, even when the difficulty of the climb is not particularly high.
Types of ice axe: from the adze to the hammer
In winter mountaineering you often need two ice axes: one with an adze and the other with a hammer. This combination gives you the versatility needed to deal with different situations. The hammer is particularly useful for driving pegs into the face, an indispensable function in emergencies.
The importance of weight in ice axes
Contrary to what you might think, in ice climbing a light ice axe can be a problem. An ice axe that is too light may not give an effective placement in hard ice, forcing you to repeat the swing several times. A heavier ice axe, on the other hand, delivers a direct and more effective blow, improving the penetration of the pick into the ice.
Balancing the ice axe: weight and function
The ideal balance of an ice axe puts most of the weight on the tip of the pick, which makes it easier to use and improves performance. However, finding an ice axe with perfect balance without it being excessively heavy can be a challenge.
The leash: an essential accessory
In winter mountaineering the leash (dragonne, or dragona) turns out to be an almost compulsory accessory for hauling yourself up on your ice axes. Many models are sold already fitted with a leash, but you can buy one separately if your ice axe comes without this accessory. There are several kinds of leash on the market, to meet every need.
The shaft: safety and comfort
The shaft of ice axes used on ice is a crucial element: it must give a secure and comfortable grip, preferably rubberised to prevent slipping. In addition, the bottom of the shaft should have a spike, so that you can also use the ice axe in hiking mode, planting it in the snow or the ground to create points of safety.
In conclusion, choosing an ice axe for winter mountaineering requires attention to several factors, including the type, the weight, the balance and accessories such as the leash and the shaft. A careful assessment of these features can make all the difference to the safety and success of your mountain adventures.
On hard snow and ice the ice axe works together with crampons: here is how they are made.