Sasso di Palazzo Borghese

Thursday, 7 July 2011

The Monti Sibillini are particularly well suited to young hikers. The paths are intact and well looked after, the waymarking not too intrusive but crystal clear when it is needed. The starting points where you leave the car and begin the hike are in most cases at a considerable altitude. This reduces the height gain and makes summits above 2000 metres accessible even to the youngest. Distances are, unlike in groups such as the Majella or the Laga, less significant. Young hikers, from as early as 8-9 years old, can try their hand at hugely satisfying hikes. Part of the effort has to come from the adults with them: you have to know how to keep them interested.

Sasso di Palazzo Borghese is a spur of rock set on a balcony of green grass in front of the summit of Palazzo Borghese. Monte Porche joins Palazzo Borghese by way of a broad, grassy saddle. Passo Cattivo, Cima di Vallinfante, Monte Porche, Palazzo Borghese and Argentella form a fairly continuous ridge, marked by gentle ups and downs. The Sasso di Palazzo Borghese juts out to the north-east, as if about to tumble into the valley below, the Valle Frondosa and the Canale.
Amid a continuous run of soft, grassy curves, the Sasso Borghese manages to amaze with its overhanging, arid shapes, an anomaly already seen on a larger scale on the nearby Pizzo del Diavolo (Devil's Peak).

The start is at the car park of the Bar-Ristorante il Rifugio La Baita. Looking at the hump of Monte delle Prata (it's not a mistake, that really is its name...), on the right there is a spring and a drinking trough where you can often come across animals drinking. You follow the path that starts here to the slopes of Monte Porche. Along the path and a little below Monte Porche we find two stazzi (shepherds' stone enclosures) for keeping sheep. The smell is strong, but the flock has been out grazing since first light. When we get close to the stazzo the flock has already climbed up Monte Porche.

Near a second drinking trough. You can happily take a break here, although we advise against drinking the water, since the flocks leaving their droppings may well have heavily polluted the groundwater with their run-off.

Here it is possible to go wrong on the way up.  On the right flank of the first knoll you can see a fairly obvious line of path. This line is certainly the most tiring way to gain height. The loose scree makes climbing this way decidedly unpleasant. We choose a path that from the drinking trough moves along the left flank of the big grassy hump. The path, hidden among the weeds, becomes more and more visible until it looks like a normal path. You climb in wide zigzags, gradually, up to 1950 m at the foot of a second grassy hump that stands at 2090 m. On this side the Porche looks imposing despite its modest height. This is perhaps an effect of being so close and of the steep open grassy slope that covers its whole flank.
After the first big steep pull the children may already be very tired, but it must be said that youth is entirely on their side: they recover easily. At 1950 m you can take another short break before the last stretch of the climb.

The path continues to the right (heading south-east), skirting the slopes of Monte Porche towards Palazzo Borghese. The saddle between the two summits hides the Sasso until the very last moment. The route is gradual, on a perfectly waymarked path. As soon as you come out on the saddle, the view that opens up leaves you amazed and moved by its beauty. The feeling of high mountains is remarkable; the contrast between grassy meadows and deeply eroded rock is unexpected and unusual.
The area is marked by deep dolines, something that may make the children curious, and you can explain to them the reason for those very peculiar shapes.

The return is by the same route. An important botanical note. On the path that from Sasso Borghese (skirting Palazzo B.) climbs to the saddle with Monte Porche we were able to see a very dense population of edelweiss (see photo).

Short fact sheet

Height gain: 495 metres net height gain
Distance: 5 km up and 5 km down.
Estimated time needed for the whole hike (breaks included): about 6 hours.

Recommended season: from spring to early autumn.
Tip: go along with the children's breaks.

Please note: there are only two points where you need to be careful; we advise holding children by the hand where there is exposed loose rubble. Three metres from the summit a rather exposed grade I move means the hike is not recommended for children under 9.

The story...

The story that goes with this hike, on the other hand, is tied to some of life's coincidences, as bizarre as they were amusing and fruitful.
Il Collaccio is the most enchanting agriturismo (farm stay) I have ever visited; the view over Preci and the Valnerina is unequalled in all the Sibillini. I often go back to Il Collaccio, where I rent a small chalet for me and my family. It's an excellent base for hikes on the western side of the Monti Sibillini National Park.
Max and Alessandra come from Amsterdam to spend their holidays in a corner of still unspoilt nature. They love the mountains and are well and truly weaned on camping.
We meet at Il Collaccio and, by some coincidence or other, we start talking about a group of hikers who had arrived on horseback during the night. That happens at Il Collaccio too. Hospitality is for everyone.
Talking to Max I discover that they too are from Rome, and that they go to the Associazione Alta Quota. It's the kind of news that makes you realise how small the world is. We discover we have dozens of acquaintances in common. Friendship is made.
Max and Alessandra have a beautiful 18-month-old little girl who, serene as an angel, seems perfectly at ease in the Collaccio surroundings.
One chat leads to another and one evening we find ourselves planning a hike together. Max is keen on a good hike to take his little girl out for some fresh air.
We decide to set off together for the Sasso di Palazzo Borghese: me, my daughter Elisa, my wife Valeria, Max and his daughter Elisa.

Max has a determined serenity and a very deep love for his daughter. He loads his little girl into the child-carrier rucksack and, without complaining even once, manages to complete the whole hike. Congratulations to Max, who gave a great demonstration of love for his daughter and, of course, for the mountains.
For all of us the presence of Elisa (18 months) and of Elisa (9 years) was the best incentive for a hike that was already very interesting in itself. Their smiles, their tumbles on the grass, their ability to get excited at the flowers and the views gave us that extra boost to enjoy an excellent day in the mountains.