Ski touring: from the Vado dell'Asina

Tuesday, 27 February 2007

Patrick and I decide on Monte Morrone. My first real ski-touring outing. There are a million options in play: I'd like to go up from the Valle Amara, Patrick suggests the Valico della Chiesola. And, as is only natural with me being the less experienced one, we decide to go with Patrick's idea. We head down towards the Prati del Cerasolo, following the clearly visible path as far as the mouth of the Colle dell'Asino (better known as Mercaturo).

The south faces of the mountains are fairly bare of snow. At times we're forced to shoulder our skis and walk on the path. And if nobody has ever told you that walking in ski boots is extremely uncomfortable, then I'm telling you. In the long run it's uncomfortable, you go slowly and it hurts your shins. In this case it isn't enough just to release the tab at the heel: it's essential to undo the upper part of the boots completely. Fortunately Patrick seems to be an expert and keeps me on my guard...

We climb the Valle dell'Asino, a comfortable ascent up the wide valley between the Morrone and the low promontory of Monte Uccettù. The snow, as I said, has melted in places. At 1664 m a wide snow-covered meadow welcomes us for a short break.

At this point, the push up to the Vado dell'Asina. On the saddle the view over the Velino group is spectacular, one of the unrivalled views of the winter. The area is completely cut off from any approach route and few hikers venture this far up. You can see all the mountains of the group: Monte Puzzillo, the Velino, the Sevice, the imposing bulk of the Murolungo… the Lago della Duchessa is at rest and you can only just make out where it lies.

What strikes you about the area is how desolate and lost it looks. The excellent exposure to the sunlight lets me take some magnificent photos that will inspire me for new hikes.

Patrick and I stop just long enough to eat. The air is still crisp and, even though the sun is high and the sky is blue, it isn't pleasant to feel the wind freezing the sweat on your skin. No Morrone this time, not on skis... I'm still too unsure of myself and there isn't enough time left to finish the climb.

We set off again. It will be the most gruelling return of all time. In a nasty fall on the snow I give my knee a bad sprain. I'll have to wear a brace for a whole six months to get rid of the pain.

In our hurry to retrace the path we end up getting lost in the wood. We slog for hours on unclear traces of path (perhaps livestock tracks). At times we walk on snow that is crusty on the surface but gives way in the layers below.

We lose height too quickly. No use looking at the maps, we're still too inexperienced. We're forced to walk so as not to keep putting the climbing skins back on the skis. My shins are completely worn raw by the boots, I'm in agonising pain and it slows my pace terribly. I'm also far too wrapped up, and the heat from the wrong clothing keeps making me drink.

By mid-afternoon we realise that, besides being nearly lost, we also risk being caught by the dark. We start to get edgy and, by way of response, decide to cut diagonally through the wood without bothering about the paths any more. Straight towards the only landmark that tells us where the car is (the summit of Monte Orsello).

When we reach the car the sun has completely set, darkness is falling over Campo Felice and I barely manage to make it to the car.

A devastating ski-touring outing, to be repeated only if you know the boundless size and complexity of the Prati del Cerasolo inside out.