Valli Bresciane by Daniele Dazzi

Redazione 25/06/2009 Reads: 1

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Seven years have passed since the last guide and new routes have been born under the sky of the Brescia valleys; bolters old and new have brought to light hidden gems, which now shine for the joy of greedy rock-eaters. On the other hand almost twenty years have passed, and I still remember the first day, since I first put on the climbing shoes I had been given as a present and threw myself, with all my strength and zero technique, at the walls of this beautiful province. The scene of my first step was the rock of Iseo, which back then looked magical and beautiful, but which now makes me shudder. Watching my first teacher move on the route “Variante diedro” made me fall in love with the movement and with the power unleashed on those few centimetres of rock. Since then it has been a constant chase after new moves and new emotions. It is the search for a limit to overcome that pushes me more and more to explore new lines and new walls, the search for the perfect move, the urge to surpass myself, always.
So here I am now updating this guide, which becomes part of the Book for Bolts project, in which Versante Sud and the Raumer company have joined forces to set aside a good amount of gear for making old routes safe and bolting new ones. In practice it is added to the various bolting funds, some of them well run, such as the now abandoned Progetto Falesie Lecchesi Sicure (Safe Lecco Crags Project) and the F.A.S.I. bolting fund, which aim to recognise the indispensable work done for us by the bolters. Part of the proceeds of this guide will go precisely into this fund, to keep increasing safety at the crags. Reports and requests for help in carrying out a bolting project can be sent to the phone number given in the section on general recommendations.

The guidebook Valli Bresciane, Falesie e vie moderne, Luoghi Verticali series, photographed on a meadowDaniele Dazzi

was born in 1965. At the age of 24 he discovers the world of mountaineering thanks to some friends who take him onto faces and routes that were legendary for him, such as the North Face of the Adamello or the Buhl route on Cima Canali. After two years of classic mountaineering he watches a round of the Italian Sport Climbing Cup in Brescia and is literally captivated by the world of competitions. With competition now in his blood, he throws himself headlong into training methods and schedules, with results that are not always excellent. He manages to win a parallel speed competition at Buffalora (BS) but without ever getting into the top thirty athletes of the CNP. A few good placings, when the strong professionals are missing, but nothing important, even though he equips tailor-made training routes in the big cave at Iseo. He becomes a F.A.S.I. climbing instructor, founds Climbing C.A.I. Iseo, helps organise various courses and competitions in sport climbing, bouldering and the Climbing Marathon between the provinces of Bergamo and Brescia, and his passion for climbing leads him more and more often to take up drill and brushes to bolt and clean climbing routes. To his credit he has a hundred or so routes scattered here and there along the shores of Lake Iseo, including the Aladino sector at Predore, equipped with the Tonoli brothers. Having very much at heart the problems and the thousand difficulties of the bolters, who are denied permits and contributions for creating and fixing up new and old crags, and backed once again by brave collaborators, he founds the A.I.P.I.A. (Associazione Italiana Preparatori Itinerari d'Arrampicata, the Italian association of climbing route equippers), bringing together bolters from all over Italy under a single idea. Ideas and projects are now being worked on by the F.A.S.I. Crags Commission, of which he is a member.

Contents of the book: “Le Valli Bresciane - Falesie e Vie Moderne”

Introduction
Bibliography
Technical introduction
How to read the guide

Brescia and surroundings

1 Maddalena
2 Caionvico
3 Virle
4 Corna Rossa (Virle 2)
5 San Gallo
6 San Gallo Nova
7 Nave
8 Mazzano

Lake Iseo


9 Iseo -Covelo
10 Marone
11 Madonna della Rota
12 Sass Striat
13 Arco di Pietra
14 Corna delle Capre

Valle Camonica

15 Grattacasolo
16 Monticolo di Darfo
17 Corno Clem e Corno Lino
18 Cividate Camuno
19 Cividate Camuno 2
20 Preduli
21 Paline “El Belem”
22 Capo di Ponte
23 Tredenus
24 Valle Salarno
25 Valle Miller
26 Valle Saviore - Val Adame
27 Concarena
28 Presena

Valle Sabbia

29 Villanuova S/Clisi “Il Covolo”
30 Barghe
21 Bione
32 Vestone “Corna 23”
33 Idro “Il Crench”
34 Idro “Corna di Fenere”
35 Capovalle “Rio Secco”

Valle del Caffaro

36 Bagnolino “Il Couchet”
37 Graver
38 Blumone

Valle Trompia

39 Lumezzane Monte Ladino
40 Caregno
41 Inzino (Val Rendeva)
42 Cima Caldoline (P.so Maniva)

Lake Garda

43 Manerba del Garda (La Rocca)
44 Monte Marmere
45 Gaino (Falesia Castello)
46 Gaino (Falesia delle Camerate)
47 Gargnano (Loc. Sasso)
48 Tremosine Val di Bondo
49 Tremosine San Michele

Logo of the Book for Bolts project: a climbing bolt with hanger on a red circle


Fact sheet

Title
Valli Bresciane
Author
Daniele Dazzi
Publisher
Versante Sud
ISBN
8887890679
Pages
260
Photos and illustrations
Colour
Year first published
Not available
Price (euros)
26.50