Alpinismo Estremo (Extreme Alpinism) - climbing light, fast and efficient

If by pragmatism we mean a knowledge of reality and the ability to act upon reality itself, then this Alpinismo Estremo manual is certainly full of it.

And if the mission of a manual is to help develop a particular practical sense towards a discipline, then this manual certainly achieves its aim.
Let's start with the simplest considerations. Versante Sud regularly leaves us amazed by the format of its books: here we are talking about a book measuring 19 x 22.5 cm with about 180 pages. The text, set in two columns per page, has an extremely readable typeface, which makes it easy to approach and quick to read. There are about 80 colour photographs interspersed with the text. For those who care about such things, the selection of photos is really interesting.  And finally a word of praise for the quality of the printing: as usual Versante Sud doesn't skimp on the quality of the inks or on the quality of the paper.

But let's come to the text and its contents. The book, divided into four sections, tackles in each of them topics that are rarely seen dealt with in mountaineering manuals for the general public.
In this sense the literature of mountain manuals gains a book that thoroughly tackles topics considered (wrongly) of secondary importance or in some cases topics of no (apparent) interest.
This is the case with the first chapter, devoted quite simply to “How to approach the mountains: character and mental approach”. A fundamental topic, especially considering that much of a mountaineer's work is not only physical but also mental. In a civilisation like ours, where every experience is tackled lightly, where even mountaineering risks becoming a consumer good, here is a chapter that puts considerations of “meaning” in the front line.
But there are other topics too explored with extraordinary wisdom in this book. A whole section is devoted to training: starting from mental preparation, going through endurance training and arriving at an analysis of nutrition.

More classic is the chapter devoted to equipment. Perhaps already seen in other manuals, it nonetheless manages to make new observations with extreme simplicity and above all to pass on information tested by direct experience.

And finally the section devoted to the technique of extreme mountaineering makes observations that are undoubtedly important and useful even for those who will never practise extreme mountaineering for a single day. Here we find considerations ranging from first aid rules to those on the pee-bottle, digging into those details of going to the mountains that are so trivial and yet so important. The chapter devoted to rope partners is innovative, a topic rarely talked about and never enough. An excellent contribution to learning to understand group dynamics (in mountaineering and beyond), topics on which new insights are certainly always needed.

An intelligent, practical book, explained in simple words, with clear examples. A linear language and frank writing make us feel immediately like friends of the author, and allow a much better understanding of the text than an academic, formal manual.

CONTENTS

Foreword by Michael Kennedy
Preface by James Martin
Introduction

Part One – How to Approach the Mountains
1 – Character and  mental approach
Part Two – Training
2 – Mental Preparation
3 – Athletic Preparation: the basics
4 – Training strength
5 – Training endurance
6 – Nutrition
Part Three – Equipment
7 – Clothing
8 – Technical gear
9 – Protection
Part Four – Technique
10 – Surviving
11 – Rope partners
12 – Going up
13 – The bivouac
14 – Going down
An apology
Audacity – A (personal) account of the history of mountaineering