Monte Elefante, the last little gully on the north face

We reach Rifugio A. Sebastiani at around eight in the morning, and there is already a great bustle. Cars keep on arriving: there are the Mountain Rescue (CNSAS) cars, the Corpo Forestale dello Stato (State Forestry Corps), the hikers' cars, and us, already twenty strong. Later the youngsters of the CAI Youth Mountaineering Course will arrive.

For this second Sunday of January the Mountain Rescue exercises are scheduled,  as happens every year. The activity around the hut is remarkable. There is life, and it is lovely to see all this “passion” milling around the mountain.

We are quickly on the path that, ridge after ridge, leads us to the foot of Monte Elefante. The plan is to follow the long traverse of about 700 metres as far as the last little gullies, where you can climb some easy ice routes and do the first exercises.

The traverse goes by quickly and in perfect safety. Right up to the start of the route.

Here the rope teams are formed.  My rope team is me, Alessandro and our instructor  Antonio. The preparation seems long to us and we are the last group to set off. Our goal is to climb an easy little gully of ice and mixed ground. Of course the poor snow cover makes the ascent rather interesting.

We decide to climb short pitches so that the instructor can keep an eye on our movements. Antonio is very meticulous. The belay stands are rigged to perfection, either on rock threads or in cracks in the rock, using friends and nuts. Antonio is also very meticulous in explaining to us the logic of setting up a belay stand in the best possible way. The cold grips our feet and hands, yet in spite of everything we stop to understand all the rope manoeuvres better.

We tend to be slower because there are 3 rope teams on the same route, which runs into a parallel ridge route where another 3 rope teams are moving. Every now and then the “rock” warning comes and we see a few fist-sized stones flying off the ridge. We stay pressed against the face to avoid the stones and the many pieces of ice falling from above.

If it weren't for the wrong choice of boots and my frozen feet, I wouldn't have suffered on the climb in the slightest. When I kick into the ice to plant my crampons, my big toes make me see stars. My toes are practically almost frozen. At times I lose all feeling in them, but when the blood comes back I have the impression that they are burning...

The route is not very long (just over 100 metres): we work it in about 5 ½  pitches. The half ropes folded in two don't let us lengthen the pitches, but it would not have been possible otherwise.

The pleasure of having moved safely in this new environment is a wonderful thing. The satisfaction of having learnt great things is even greater. Out of the route we find ourselves on an exposed ridge barely a metre and a half wide. From here we follow a short stretch of airy ridge to the broad east side of the Elefante, where crunchy but safe snow and ice welcome us. We cover the final traverse to the summit in just forty minutes. Everyone is on the summit, waiting for us. There is a palpable happiness and satisfaction among all the students.

Once the tension is over and the concentration drops, everyone lets go with jokes and good-natured horseplay. The ritual summit photos and off we go... on the way back.

The instructors' idea of bringing us onto this side of the mountain was a real winner. Despite the lack of snow, this side of Monte Elefante is full of mountaineering possibilities of considerable interest. A real training ground for the mountaineers of central Italy.

And to think that for so long I had foolishly considered Monte Elefante a second-rate little mountain. I had to think again. The aesthetics of the natural setting in its winter dress and the aesthetics of the climbing routes are truly interesting and much (far too much) underrated.

The return is marked by the enthusiasm of the students, who thank their instructors from the heart for leading them with such skill on these wonderful routes. The thanks go for the patience they had with us, for putting up with our fears and for supporting us in the difficult moments. An occasion on which we all learnt to face, manage and overcome our limits.

A  great day of mountaineering with CAI Frascati.